There’s nothing more pure.

Bees are a very hard working species, producing honey and wax within the hive, working off of a comb. When honey is removed, the capping is the wax that is left behind. Beeswax from the capping is the best for candle making. Combs can also be used, but this wax can contain more pollen and propollis (tree dirt) and left over bee bits. The capping wax may vary from a light yellow to amber depending on what crop the hive is near. The comb wax can be even darker, almost brown, as it darkens with age. 

Beeswax has a melt point of 143F- 149F and a flash point of 400F. As a result, it takes a considerable amount of time to heat beeswax in a double boiler system. If you choose to use direct heat, set the temperature to low and do not walk away. Overheating beeswax can destroy some of its natural qualities and leave it a dirty brown color.

Beeswax can be used for any candle type, from tea light to dipped taper to pillar candle. It can also be poured in a jar. You don’t see beeswax jar candles very often, the reason being it is hard to get any unused wax out of the bottom of a jar to repurpose it, and it is too valuable to waste. Because of its higher melt point, it maintains its shape, which makes it ideal for great pillar candles. Aged beeswax may produce “bloom”. This white powder forms on the surface of the candle over time. It is a sign of the purity of the wax and does not affect the candle in any way.

The trickiest part of making beeswax candles is in the wicking. The best wick to use is cotton braid. There are many sizes of cotton braid wicking. Two beeswax candles, identical in diameter and wicked the same, may burn differently depending on the crop of wax and how well it has been cleaned. 

 A dusty film or bloom will form on pure beeswax. This bloom is a natural occurrence and illustrates the 100% purity of your wax.